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| Victoria Falls Backpackers | Local Night Life |
Zimbabwe - Victoria Falls
Day 1: Monday March 15th 2004. I have arrived at Victoria Falls. Although I have yet to revisit anywhere I saw in 1997, I already have a strong sense that things have changed significantly. The value of the Zim dollar seems to have dropped, with taxi fares running into the 10's of thousands, which is equivalent to 2 pounds. Also, there are reportedly 100's of visitors instead of 1000's here at any one time. However, I have moved into a lodge that far exceeds the place I stayed at last time. For around 7 USD a night I have a dorm to myself, as well as a swimming pool! The manager, Alex, is a nice guy, and has sorted out some white water rafting for tomorrow. I don't fancy doing the bungee jump again, as last time I spent the rest of the day in shock! So I think I'll do the micro-light flight over the Falls instead.
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| Victoria Falls Backpackers | Local Night Life |
It is incredibly exciting to be travelling again, although the reality of the whole situation has yet to sink in - I need a nights sleep and a detox for that!
Day 2: Tuesday March 16th 2004. After what can only be described as a rude awakening, courtesy of one of the less polite staff here, a perfect day's fun was had white water rafting - 3 capsizings and a bit of sunburn - all good! We had to miss the first few rapids, due to the high water a this time of year, but the remaining ones more than made up for it. A couple of times I was in the water, had the wind knocked out of me and then had to go through the remaining rapid underwater with no air! It was good panic situation training! The adrenal grin appeared on my face, and was firmly in place for the rest of the day. En route down the rapids, we saw a troop of Baboons by the waters edge, and some fantastic views of the gorge and forest - entangled vines, hordes of yellow butterflies and brightly coloured flowers littered the exhausting 220M climb out of the gorge at the end of the trip. Afterwards we all met in a bar to watch the video and drink. Lots. One of the couples in my raft turned out to be skydivers. We had a lot to talk about!
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| Rafting on the Zambezi | ~ | Last person holding on! |
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| Our crew | Both rafts |
Day 3: Wednesday March 17th 2004. Visited the Falls from the Zambian side with Mike and Tanya, a German couple from Cologne. As we approached the Falls, the sun got hotter and hotter, to the point where I could have started to fry eggs on my sunburn. However, once we had paid our entrance fees, the heavens mercifully opened up into the most impressive tropical rain I have ever witnessed. We all had waterproofs, but they were in the face of such a deluge combined with the spray from the Falls. We were utterly pounded with water from all directions - utterly amazing! The shear raw power of the experience is not something I will forget - at times, nothing further than 5M away was visible. Every now and then the spray / rain / mist would clear, affording just the briefest glimpses of the Falls themselves. I was moved to the point where I felt the need to shout 'hello Africa!' as loud as possible and just grin! Afterwards we trudged back soaked, but exhilarated. That night, on a trip to the loo, I had an encounter with my first African millipede - huge, but harmless.
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| Mike and Tanya | Falls edge in the rain | Millipede |
Dinner that night proved to be filled with more new experiences. On a recommendation, we went to a somewhat expensive restaurant, where for around 20USD each I got to sample crocodile spring rolls for a starter, followed by Eland steak in an Orange sauce, all washed down with G&T and a lurvely Zimbabwean Merlot. Good company, good food, good drink - sorted!
Day 4: Thursday March 18th 2004. Woke up nice and early in my own time, without the stress of my first morning, to go on an Ultralight flight over the Falls. An Ultralight is a cross between a very small boat-plane and a Microlight. I ended up getting two gos for the price of one, as the first flight was a bit clouded over. By 10am the clouds had lifted, and the view was nothing short of astounding. I must have taken 50 shots! It was really good to get a view of the complete falls, as this was not possible from the ground.
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| Ultralight | Flora | Two tone flower |
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| Approach | Zoomed in | Front side |
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| Bungee bridge | Rainbow | Landing |
Day 5: Friday March 19th 2004. After an early breakfast, I went to see the Falls from the Zimbabwean side with a girl called Dalete, who I'd met the previous evening. Later, after searching around the shops I took the plunge with the local ATMs (reportedly dodgy exchange rates for Brits) and bought a CD of local music and some better swimming shorts. It was my last night in Zimbabwe. That night we all (Pablo and Huan, Dalete and Kathy) went to the Boma, an extravaganza of local food and dance at one of the more posh hotels. I added to my resume of culinary experiences with Warthog steak (the best), Kudu stew, Boerwurst and of course some bugs - Mapone Worms, actually not bad...
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| The Falls | Livingston | Statues at ATM |
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| Dalete | Falls birdlife | Me |
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| Boma chef one | dinner | Boma chef two |